Cream cakes and champagne in Hanoi

“Too much of anything is bad, but too much Champagne is just right.” ― F. Scott Fitzgerald

We flew out of Chiang Mai, leaving Thailand where the majority of the family had had a wonderful time. Fred had enjoyed the country, but for the vast majority of it had been struggling with his dizziness, which remained with us as we left Thailand. Neither of us had ever visited Vietnam and so this was an exciting next stage of our adventure, but one where we were somewhat shooting in the dark in relation to where to go and what to do.

Hanoi, is a great City. Vibrant and busy; you can’t help but be swept up in its energy, amazing history and culinary experiences. Tired from travelling, we checked into a lovely small hotel in the middle of the Old Town and swiftly made our way to an early dinner at a local café. Getting there was an ordeal in itself. We had been advised that crossing a road was hazardous but nothing could prepare us for such a battle. As recommended we eye balled each driver and gestured wildly at the children until they eventually succumbed giving us tiny spaces to weave our way through.

Dinner was worth every near-death moment. Our first and probably our best meal in Vietnam and certainly the best value. Tummies full, we braved another terrifying walk back to the hotel and rested (well I say rested. Fred decided to hit the town, watching the rugby in a crowded bar into the early hours and suffering a very sore head in return). While Fred was nursing a hangover and the kids were happy playing, I took the opportunity to go for an early morning run. I headed to the Hoan Kiem lake where I knew it was clear of traffic every weekend and although I nearly had several heart attacks negotiating with the traffic to get there I enjoyed a very peaceful and cool run watching the dance troupes that gather there and the energetic hub of activity. I would never advise taking children to a city for a holiday but actually (although they would rather be in a pool or on a beach) the kids tried really hard to adapt to the hustle and bustle here. They diligently traipsed round a few temples, marvelled at Confucius (while I frantically tried to revise who he was) and even tried the most revolting food we have had whilst on our trip. Are they becoming a bit more resilient yes maybe although hard to properly call it at this point…..

We were only in Hanoi a day but we managed to enjoy several of the sites, not enjoy some absolutely disgusting street food (note to self – we need to investigate the good places!) and then head back to the sanctuary of our hotel ahead of our trip to Halong Bay. We had decided to spend more than our budget would allow to take a cruise to Halong Bay to see the majestic limestone islands and the dramatic scenery it promised. I wish I could say it was worth it but here again was another lesson learnt. Reading all the reviews we jumped at the opportunity to go with an excellent cruise liner with a full itinerary over the two days (kayaking, swimming, cave walking, a visit to a fishing village etc). What we had failed to investigate was the weather which was damp, rainy and depressing. What might have been such a wonderful trip in the sun was rather ruined as we struggled to dry our clothes and went to bed soggy each night. To add insult to a rather foolish decision, it also became clear that being on a boat was exacerbating Fred’s dizzy spells and so poor Fred was not only wet but also wobbly. Not a good combination for anyone. The kids, despite a few moans about damp pjs at bedtime were amazing, making the most of the cruise with swims in the hot tub, the wet BBQ on the beach, squid fishing and getting to grips with chess. They charmed all the other guests and both Fred and I were so proud to hear the lovely feedback (they were the only children on the cruise) they received.

We were relieved when the boat docked back into the Bay but were rather apprehensive of the next stage of our journey, a night and day staying at a village, Yen Duk, just outside of Hanoi. As the photos will show this was an incredible experience and we would have done Halong Bay for five nights just to have had one night here. Our guide Gi grew up in the village and clearly knew the locals and the area as only someone who lived there would. The children absolutely loved cycling round quiet roads, learning how to make rice, hearing about old traditions and fishing (with their bare hands).

I woke up in the village on my 44th birthday and headed out for a beautiful run amongst the rice fields and rivers as the village reeved into activity. I was greeted on return by three very excited children and the most lovely selection of presents (all bought in Hanoi). The children had done such lovely cards and Fred had put so much thought into my gifts; I felt very spoilt. To top it off Gi arrived with the most delicious hand made cake. She now lives an hour away from the village so arriving home at 11pm the night before had stayed up till 2.30am to make the cake. Totally beyond the call of duty, and particularly so because it was the first of four cakes for the birthday queen to enjoy! But what a cake, words cannot do it justice. The children who love novelty cakes to look at but can take it or leave it when it comes to the eating could not get enough. It was the only cake we have ever had as a family that each and everyone has relished.

So cake for breakfast followed by a bike ride, a trip to the market, water puppet show and then back to Hanoi where I was serenaded by hotel staff. What a perfect way to spend my 44th birthday but the best was yet to come. Fred splashed out on an incredible restaurant with CHAMPAGNE (courtesy of my wonderful sisters who know my expensive tastes and massive weakness). Having not (quite clearly) been able to indulge myself to this extent during our travels it was all the more enjoyable and my half bottle (all to myself) slipped down well!!

One of the reasons we wanted to get away was to try and bring some perspective on life as we found ourselves spending vast amounts of money without thinking about the value it was bringing, and often the spending was out of sheer laziness. We were concerned that London living was imparting an unhealthy and unrepresentative perspective on life that neither of us grew up with and we do not want our kids to grow up with. Living on a budget for the first time in some years has been a big change for all of us, but it is interesting what it has highlighted. Of course, the correlation between money spent and enjoyment is loose at best, though there are clearly times when spending a bit of money is needed. But more interestingly, spending more than one's budget on something often sets the bar so high that it is difficult to enjoy it - one looks for fault and constantly questions if it is worth it. Indeed, I fear that by going over budget it almost becomes a fait accompli that we are not going to enjoy it. The corollary is that those places and experiences where you have spent very little tend to be fantastic (other than a few meals). Not only are they more simple and give more time to be together as a family, but the inevitable hiccoughs become high points and quite hysterical. Even our $8 inedible meal was fun. Not sure we have dispelled our well intrenched consumerism, but we are beginning to dwell our minds on how to spend our time, rather than our money. It makes quite a dramatic difference.

Next stop the beach….

“While money can’t buy happiness, it certainly lets you choose your own form of misery.” — Groucho Marx