'You don't know what you have until it has gone' - Joni Mitchell
What an amazing place Canada is. I think we saved the best till last. We
landed in Vancouver ready for another adventure after the comfort and glamour of Los Angeles. We arrived late and because of a diary mal function (thankfully not mine) were staying in an airport convenient hotel and Casino for two nights. We were a little concerned about what it would offer us but it was brilliant. The staff were helpful, the rooms very comfortable and it had a swimming pool with the longest water slide I have seen in anywhere other than a water park.
Vancouver itself is often overlooked as people rush through the city onwards to other parts of British Columbia. We used our day in Vancouver to combine purchasing essentials to navigating around the City on the Skyline, a visit to Granville Island and cycling around Stanley Park. Alfie and Eliza surprised both Fred and I by cycling a flat but tiring 9km route round the most fabulous park, mountains in the background with not a complaint to be heard. To Eliza’s delight she spied an otter, we saw a seal and as it gets dark really late here we enjoyed a late supper by the harbour and wondered back to the hotel very happy.
Next stop was Quadra Island; close to Vancouver Island but because of the popularity and expense of the main island a smaller, less populated version. We stayed in Perrywinkle cottage a place as quaint and gorgeous as its name suggests and here we were greeted by a lovely lady Carol who owned the farm. The farm was inhabited with goats we took for a walk (excuse the pun but I kid you not), chickens, dogs and a well looked after vegetable garden. The children loved just being there, picking raspberries, petting the goats and giving our left overs to the dog. From there we made various trips to incredibly beautiful places, Rebecca Spit (our favourite) for its combination of ocean, beach and woodland and beautiful mountains in the distance. We drove to the main park in the middle of the island where we had a lake to ourselves to swim in and where Alfie jumped out of his skin when he spotted a snake.
Canada, like Australia hasn’t spoilt its natural beauty with cafes or shops near these beautiful places and so you feel you are in the middle of nowhere. You need to be organized bring your own water and picnic but the breathtaking views and the isolation were worth it.
On a walk one afternoon to a light house on one corner of the island we saw what we have paid hundreds of pounds to see on various different trips throughout our travels. You hear a sigh, we were told by Carol, that is the sign and a sigh indeed it was. It made Fred turn in his tracks, look out to sea and literally 20 metres from where we were standing there is was. A fabulous humpback swimming just in front of us. We had the most terrific view of this great beast and it was so much more exciting because we hadn’t been out on a boat looking for it. Unlike so many of our tourist experiences we had no expectations and were therefore exhilarated and amazed at what we saw.
From Quadra we journeyed back through Vancouver to Joffre Creek, near Whistler. Here we had our log cabin experience. In the middle of nowhere, just lakes, mountains and bears. We had only just arrived when Fred flew back to London for a couple of very key meetings. We always knew that there was a chance he may have to fly back at one point or other during our journey but to miss out on this part, which cruelly was one location he had looked forward to the most was harsh. I was terrified. Not only were we in the most remote location we had been in during our whole trip, but I had to quickly get to grips with driving on the right hand side, making fires and having three children to myself for the first time in seven months. It is amazing how little credit one affords their partner and it really emphasized how much Fred does, how hands on he is and how great it is to have him there. The children and in particular Eliza missed him terribly, even though it was only three days, and I just went into head down mode, getting through each challenge but trying to make sure the kids enjoyed it too. I think they did. Our wonderful host (who lived an hour away but who we saw sporadically) introduced us to Geocache, an app that shows eager treasure hunters locations that house some sort of treasure, placed by other eager geocachers. And there are millions in Canada. Just some are harder to find than others, but it certainly made a few of our longer walks more interesting, as did Alfie’s accidental spraying of the bear spray, and whiled away the time whilst Fred was away. The country is beautiful there. Lakes, mountains and although it was pretty cool for July in Canada some of the lakes were warm enough to swim in and as there was no Fred to share the ‘Swimming Monster’ burden I had to take up the Challenge. I think here is a good point to also say how incredibly amiable Canadians are. I had a couple of moments where my mothering duties fell short, a walk took too long and we were stranded or too cold to walk back. The first lady I asked was more than willing to give us all a lift back to our car and we found that all Canadians were jumping at the bit to help in anyway they could over anything. Directions, best places to eat, what to do etc. Our hosts at both Quadra and Joffre Creek were two of the best we have had and I don’t think it is any coincidence that they are Canadian.
On the day Fred returned we crammed in too much (one of my specialties) with a picnic at one lake, and then a walk and two swims at another. Before we knew it was 7pm and I was racing home to pack (we were leaving for the airport early the next morning) and the children hadn’t been fed. Fred walked in at nearly 11pm and we were only just thinking about going to bed, the children having eaten at 9.30pm and me at 10pm whilst hurriedly throwing things randomly into suitcases. The welcome he received was in some ways, but probably not many, worth his journey! Everyone was pleased to see him. We had missed him and our crazy day just emphasised how much we needed his assistance!. Distance does most certainly make the heart fonder.
With family intact, sadly no bear citings, we set off to Toronto and then onto St Catherine’s, near Niagara on the Lake, to meet up with Clair Teig and her two children (sadly Magnus could not make it ). Despite Niagara Falls' wonder and magnitude we were pretty non plussed. The falls remain a wonder but the site they are on has been turned into a theme park and it was crowded and hot. We didn’t stay long. The kids preferring the lake, some new friends and our pizza lilo to play on. For me it was just wonderfully therapeutic to see an old friend and although my kids fought over who was going to be their new friends best buddy we spent the time doing low key activities in the heat, visiting a fort and playing.
When a search for an ATM took me an hour in the heat, much to Clair’s and Fred’s annoyance, (looking after 5 kids in that heat isn’t much fun when no one has a phone that works abroad) it was lucky that Clair knew me so well and could understand my ‘dog with a bone’ nature that would have led to that situation arising. And thankfully she also understood my ‘ants in my pants ‘nature which left her with five kids while I went for a walk (taking longer than poor Clair had expected). But it gave me the much needed nudge to look at some of my behaviour traits that I had ahead of travelling acknowledged and knew I would have to change during our trip. After all travelling with a family of five, doing absolutely everything together and living in sometimes confined spaces does not lend itself to ‘dog with a bone’ nature or any type of selfishness. Sadly for me, habits die hard and although this trip has been incredibly influential for the children, shaping their development in what we hope will be a positive way, it hasn’t really changed my fundamental nature. Perhaps by recognizing what that is helpful. For Fred too, I had hoped he may become a bit more carefree, less worried about mess or organization (two things I am terrible at) but although he has certainly relaxed more, he hasn’t changed totally either. But what has is our acceptance of each other’s foibles and some sympathy and laughter about it. Now that helps and we will return much closer, more attuned as a family and a unit, ready to face pretty much anything.
It is strange to think that our journey is coming to an end. I am approaching its finale with mixed feelings. Excitement about our new life but also sadness that this special time as a family is coming to a close. I will cherish these memories and I am so lucky to have them but now it is time to look ahead - onwards and forward!
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